Navneet: 身处香格里拉的中心

In The Heart Of Shangri La

身处香格里拉的中心

A Travelogue of My 3rd Yunnan Adventure… By Andrew

我的第三次云南之旅的游记--作者Andrew

Part Two: Rediscovering the discovered

第二部分：重新发现之旅

Introduction

前言

I don’t know if any of my Indian friends who visit my blogs have been to Kailash Mansarover or not. I must ask Usha Suryamani because she is always out visiting temples. I marvel her faith that I believe gives her strength to make pilgrimages to even little known temples at far off places. In India the devotees undertake arduous journeys to temples situated on high hills. One is often amazed to see little children and even the old and infirm, marching on, with prayers on their lips. The conditions euphemistically speaking are not good. Poor infrastructure, lack of toilets on way, insufficient rain shelters, inadequate health and safety support from the administration- everything seems lacking except enthusiasm of the people and the vagaries of weather but still millions of people make pilgrimages to Amarnath Caves in Jammu and Kashmir, Vaishno Devi (also in J & K), Kedarnath and Badrinath in (Uttranchal) and many other places deep in the Himalayas.

我不知道访问我博客的印度朋友有没有去过冈仁波齐山。我必须问问Usha Suryamani，因为她经常去寺庙。我对她的信仰感到惊奇，我相信她的信仰使她有力量去遥远的地方，甚至是不知名的寺庙朝圣。在印度，信徒们要到坐落在高山上的寺庙进行艰苦的旅行。人们常常惊奇地看到年幼的孩子，甚至是年老体衰的人，嘴里念念有词着继续前进。委婉地说，条件并不好。基础设施差、缺乏厕所，避雨的地方不多，健康和安全管理的支持不足，除了热情的人和变幻莫测的天气，一切似乎都很缺乏，但仍有数以百万计的人们会到查谟和克什米尔的阿马尔纳特石窟和拜希诺女神，北阿坎德邦的凯达尔纳特和巴德里纳特朝拜，除此之外还有很多位于喜马拉雅山脉深处的其他地方。

Some people go to Mansarover in China. They have to undergo fitness test because it is said that physically weak people cannot undertake that tough journey. I don’t know, how one feels on being there but the memories of seeing the majesty of ‘Nar’ (Man) and Narayan (God mountains at Badrinath, covered with snow are still fresh in my memory though I went there more than twenty years ago. They are two towering mountains facing each other as you see them while standing in the valley where Badrinath Temple is located. The sheer size was Narayan dwarfs Nar mountain range and their names thus aptly symbolize the stature of man in comparison with the majesty of God

在中国，有些人去圣山，必须接受健康测试，因为据说身体虚弱的人不能承受那段艰难的旅程。我不知道人们在那里的感受如何，但我记得20多年前到过那里，看到‘纳拉延’(人类)和纳拉延(巴德里纳特的神山，被雪覆盖)的雄伟壮观的景象仍然历历在目。他们是两座巍峨的山，面对面站在巴德利纳神庙所在的山谷中。纳拉扬山是纳拉扬山的侏儒纳尔山脉，他们的名字恰如其分地象征着人类的地位与上帝的威严相比。

Today, while writing introduction for the second part of the blog by Andrew a thought came to my mind that what the pilgrims think on reaching Mansarover? Perhaps the heaven lies beyond the foreboding hills and on seeing the snow-capped mountains surrounding Mansarover what do the apostate think? That what hidden beauty lies on the other side of the yonder mountains? Well, no one knows it for sure where heaven is or whether it is there or not- but many of us will contend that it is here itself ; all that you need to have is an eye to discern it.

今天，当我为安德鲁的第二部分博文写引言时，我想到了一个想法，那就是朝圣者到达曼沙洛弗后会怎么想?也许天堂就在山丘后面吧。当你看到被白雪皑皑覆盖的群山时，你会怎么想?隐藏在山那边的会是什么美景呢?好吧，没有人确切地知道天堂在哪里，也没有人知道它是否在那儿——但是我们许多人会争辩说，天堂本身就在这里;你所需要的只是一只眼睛来认出它。

Let me bring to you some lines from a beautiful Hindi song that has suddenly come to my mind.

让我为你们带来一首优美的北印度歌曲的歌词，它突然闪现在我的脑海里。

Yeh kaun chitrakar hai (Who is the artist?)

艺术家是谁？

Second Stanza

第二节

Tapaswiyon see hain atal yeh parawato kee chotiyan

These mountain peaks are like unshakeable (faith, grit of the) meditating hermits

这些山峰就像冥思的隐士一样坚不可摧

Yeh sarpa see ghoomeradar, gheradar ghatiya

These serpentine, curvilinear valleys

这些蜿蜒曲折的山谷

Dhwaja se yeh khade huye hain wariksh dewadar ke

These deodar trees are standing like flags

这些杜达尔树像旗帜一样矗立着

Galiche yeh gulab ke, bagiche yeh bahar ke

These carpets of roses, these gardens of spring

这些玫瑰地毯，这些春天的花园

Yeh kis kavee kee kalpana kaa chamatkar hai

This is the marvel of imagination of which poet?

这是哪位诗人的想象奇迹?

Yeh kaun chitrakar hai..........

Who is this artist…

这位艺术家是谁?

Now I take the liberty of presuming that you have liked this stanza and therefore I am going to put the other two stanzas too here because poetry enthuses me, it’s my first love.

现在我冒昧地假设你们喜欢这一节，因此我将把另外两节也放在这里，因为诗歌让我着迷，这是我的初恋。

Let’s enjoy the song first

让我们先欣赏这首歌

The First Stanza

第一节

Haree haree wasundhara pe nila nila yeh gagan

On this sprawling green carpeted earth is blue sky

在这铺着绿色地毯的广阔土地上，是蓝天

Ke jis pe badalon kee palakee uda raha pawan

On which the air is swaying the palanquin of the clouds

空气在上面晃动着云朵的轿子

Dishayein dekho rangbharee, chamak rahee umang bharee

See it’s colourful all around. All directions are glittering with excitement

看，到处都是五颜六色的色彩。四面八方都闪烁着兴奋的光芒

Yeh kis ne phul phul pe kiya singar hai

Who has decorated every flower?

谁装饰了每一朵花?

Yeh kaun chitrakar hai

Who is the artist?

艺术家是谁?

Third Stanza

第三节

Kudrat kee iss pavitrata ko tum nihar lo

Behold the purity of the Nature

看看大自然的纯洁

Iss ke guno ko apne mann me tum utar lo

Assimilate her qualities in your heart

你的心要像她的品质一般高洁

Chamakalo aaj lalima, apne lalat kee

Let your forehead (shine with its glory)

让你的额头(闪耀着它的光辉)

Kan kan se jhankatee tumhe chhabee virat kee

From every particle the image of Almighty peeps out

从每一个细微之处，都出现全能的神

Apnee toh aankh yek hai uss kee hajar hai

We have just one set of eyes but He has a thousand

我们只有一双眼睛，但他有一千双眼睛

Yeh kaun chitrakar hai.........

Who is this artist?

这位艺术家是谁?

Although the song is very meaningful but my translation is poor, I know I haven’t been able to do justice to the words but I think I have conveyed the essence.

虽然这首歌极富深意，但是我的翻译水平实在太差，我自知还没能对歌词做出正确的解释，但我认为我已经传达了精髓。

We all know, who He is and the more we see His art, the more we learn to see His art in everything around us, the more blessed we feel.

我们都知道他是谁，我们越多地看到他的杰作，我们就越能从我们周围的一切中看到他的艺术，我们就越感到幸福。

If you happen to go to Kailash ManSarover and a thought comes to you that “What lies beyond?” then- this blogs brings an answer to your question- “What lies on the other side of Kailash Man Sarover?” (For the benefit of my Chinese friends, let me put here that Kailash Mansarover is a Holy Pilgrimage site revered by the Hindus.

如果你碰巧去了冈仁波齐山，你会有一个想法:“这后面有什么?”然后——这个博客回答了你的问题——“冈仁波齐山的另一面是什么?”(为了我的中国朋友的利益，让我在这里说一下，冈仁波齐山是一个被印度教徒崇拜的圣地。

In the heart of Shangri-La

在香格里拉的中心

Andrew writes:-

安德鲁写道:-

My original plan was of skip Lijiang and finding some company for coming along with me to visit Meri Snow Mountain（major peak Kawagebo ). The main purpose was of course to save on expenses by sharing a cab, for the reason that public transport never allows hop off for taking instant photos when captivated by random awesome landscapes. Besides, having dinner in solitude is a torture in itself.

我原来的计划是跳过丽江和找一些同伴，跟我一起去梅里雪山(主峰卡瓦格博峰)。其主要目的当然是为了共用一辆出租车，节省开支，因为公共交通不可能随时停车，让我拍摄风景照片。此外，独自吃饭本身就是一种折磨。

On such an excursion the best thing would be to trek all the way, cam at night but in today's commercial world, it's even impossible to dream such long excursions.

在这种短途旅行中，最美妙的事是一路长途跋涉,在夜间露营,但在今天的商业世界,想要进行这样长途徒步简直就是做梦。

Now hundreds of such places are visited each year by multitude of humanity and they leave the marks of modernization in the form of garbage that Mother Nature doesn't know how to get rid of.

如今，每年有数百个这样的地方被大量的人类造访，游客们留下了垃圾，留下了现代化的痕迹，这是大自然母亲不知道该如何应对的。

My expectation fell through after two nights in Lijiang where I learned from the local people that it was perhaps the leanest off-season that they had seen in years and they couldn’t recollect when they had seen so few tourists to follow Joseph Rock’s trail in the heart of Shangri-La before this.

我在丽江逗留了两个晚上后，期望告吹了，我从当地人那儿得知，这可能是他们最近几年来观察到的最不景气的淡季，他们已经不记得上次看到游客跟随约瑟夫洛克的足迹进入香格里拉中心是什么时候的事了。