I am an Indian who came to Pakistan for the Track II dialogue. Here's what I think

我是来巴基斯坦参加第二轮对话的印度人，想听听我的想法吗？

The coolie handed over our luggage to us as we stepped out of our bus. We were directed to carry our luggage on the straight road divided vertically until we see a horizontal line. Beyond that line and the gate, there were coolies waiting impatiently. We approached them and started negotiating in the same language that we used with their counterparts who had seen us off.

It was a strange feeling, for we had just landed in a new country.

I witnessed a physical similarity and a sense of great familiarity, while travelling along the straight road that disconnects yet connects the two nations.

我们下车时，小工把我们的行李交给了我们。我们被要求拖着行李走在垂直分开的笔直道路上，直到看到一条横线。在这条线和大门外，有几个小工不耐烦地等着。我们走过去，开始用出发时我们对帮忙扛行李的小工说的同样的语言进行了谈判。

这是一种奇怪的感觉，因为我们明明到达了一个新国家。

当我沿着一条虽被隔断却连接着两国的笔直道路旅行时，我看到了两国人外貌的相似性和一种非常熟悉的感觉。

India-Pakistan: A dichotomous relationship

This apparent contradiction is a defining feature of the India-Pakistan relationship. Even though the two states hesitate to issue visas, creating endless hurdles to restrict entry, the immigration centres have a different tale to tell. It was pleasantly surprising to find a board in devanagari that read Aagaman (‘arrival’ in chaste Hindi) at the Pakistan immigration centre, welcoming the Indian visitors.

Such is the relationship between India and Pakistan, between the states and between the people — a dichotomous relationship of conflict and cooperation, of hatred and curiosity, of suspicion and trust.

My experience in Pakistan, for the second time, majorly comprised the latter set of emotions. It was a Track II Bilateral Dialogue that brought me to Islamabad, Pakistan, that I had often heard being referred to as ‘one of the world’s most beautiful capitals’.

The dialogue was a meeting of concerns, of thoughts and people who share a religion, and that of compassion. The dialogue debunks the notion of “peace is one-sided” quite substantially, and signifies its dominance on both sides.

印巴关系：二分法关系

这种明显的矛盾是印巴关系的一个显著特征。尽管这两个国家在签证方面不太爽利，给入境设置了无尽的障碍，但移民中心的情况却完全不同。令人惊喜的是，在巴基斯坦移民中心的我发现了一块用梵文写就的Aagaman(到达)的牌子，欢迎印度游客。

这就是印度与巴基斯坦、国家与人民之间的关系—一种冲突与合作、仇恨与好奇、怀疑与信任的二元关系。

我在巴基斯坦的经历，这是我第二次来，主要体会到了一种情绪。正是第二轮双边对话把我带到了巴基斯坦的ysl堡，我经常听到人们说它是“世界上最美丽的首都之一”。

这次对话是关于思想和拥有共同宗教信仰的人们的大会。对话在很大程度上揭穿了“和平是单方面的”的概念，表明了和平对双方的支配地位。

Newfound friendships & warm encounters in Pakistan

The warmth, however, was not restricted to this particular hall. I visited the Lok Virsa museum with a newfound friend and went to a shop to buy some gifts. The shopkeeper started suggesting some good gifting options, unaware of where I was from.

He showed me several options while trying to convince by highlighting the details on the make. As I haggled about the prices, he assured me, “Aap aaj aayi hain, dobara aayengi” (You will come again to buy more). I started looking at the keychains when he suggested that I get them for my friends and encourage the local handicraft.

Later, he asked me, “Aap yaha se nahi hai, kaha se aayi hain?” (You don’t seem to be from here, where have you come from?).

I replied, “Main India se aayi hu” (I have come from India). He was visibly shocked and immediately blurted out, “Par..aap..Urdu..” (But you are speaking Urdu).

在巴基斯坦新发现的友谊和温暖的相遇

然而，温暖并不仅局限于这个大厅。我和一个新朋友参观了洛克维尔萨博物馆，还去商店买了一些礼物。店主不知道我来自哪里，给了我一些选购礼物的好建议。

他向我展示了几种礼物，同时强调了制作的细节，试图说服我。当我跟他讨价还价时，他向我保证:“Aap aaj aayi hain, dobara aayengi”(你下次肯定会再来选购的)。当他建议我把钥匙链送给我的朋友，我开始看钥匙链。

后来，他问我:“Aap yaha se nahi hai, kaha se aayi hain?”(你好像不是本地人，你从哪里来?)

我回答说:“se aayi hu”(我来自印度)。他显然很震惊，立刻脱口而出:“Par. aap. Urdu.”(但你说的是乌尔都语)。

We then exchanged thoughts on how the spoken Hindi of India and the spoken Urdu of Pakistan are highly similar — almost the same, except a few words. Still confused, the shopkeeper gave me the discount that I had asked for earlier. He even reconfirmed, from my friend, if I was really from India. As we started to leave, he interrupted, “Ek minute rukiye” (Wait for a moment). He asked me to choose a bracelet. To my surprise, he said, “Aapko yaad rahein..” (As a memory).

I responded, “Agar gift hai to aap khud select karein” (If it is a gift then you select one).

He looked at the bracelets, tried to narrow it down to one, and then took out an elaborately-done bracelet for me.

然后，我们就印度的印地语和巴基斯坦的乌尔都语是如何高度相似交换了看法——除了少数几句话之外，几乎一模一样。店主很困惑，但还是给了我要求的折扣。他甚至向我的朋友确认，我是否真的来自印度。我们正要离开时，他打断了我们的话，“Ek minute rukiye”(请稍等)。他让我选了一个手镯。令我惊讶的是，他说:“Aapko yaad rahein..(留作纪念吧)。

我回答说:“Agar gift hai to aap khud select karein”(如果这是礼物，那么你帮我选一个吧)。

他仔细看了看手镯，拿出一只做工精细的递给了我。

Friendship & love across the border

While his gesture was truly unforgettable and precious, a friend later told me that it wasn’t that uncommon with countless stories by Indian and Pakistani visitors of having received such warmth in the ‘other’ country.

Many such incidents followed. In the lobby, I had a conversation with a bell staff. After expressing his amusement on discovering my nationality, he was quite outspoken with the other staff about it. He told his colleagues, “She has come from Delhi”.

The other staff person asked me about my experience and said, “We also wish to visit India, visit Delhi and Agra and go to Kapil Sharma’s show.”

I laughed and expressed my hope for his wish to be fulfilled. He then asked my name and to my surprise, he was among the rare group of people who can pronounce my name correctly. To this, he replied, “Your name appeared twice in CID (an Indian TV serial)!”

跨越国界的友谊和爱

虽然他的做法确实令人难忘和珍贵，但一位朋友后来告诉我，印度和巴基斯坦游客在“彼此”国家受到如此热情接待的故事并不罕见。

随后发生了许多这样的事件。在大厅里，我和一个行李员进行了交谈。他发现我的国籍后表示很高兴，对其他工作人员也直言不讳。他告诉他的同事，“她来自德里”。

另一位工作人员问了我的旅行经历，说:“我们也想去印度，去德里和阿格拉，去观看卡皮尔·夏尔马的时装秀。”

我笑了，表示希望他的愿望能实现。然后他问我的名字，令我惊讶的是，他是极少数能正确念出我名字的人之一。对此，他回答说:“你的名字在CID(一部印度电视剧)上出现过两次!”

The role of common people in encouraging peace talks

We often ponder about the role that common people can play in international relations when the deliberations often limit their role. It is important that the people understand how the conflict is tearing both our countries apart and how it is affecting each one of us. People of India and Pakistan not only share a language, a culture, love for Bollywood movies or Coke Studio, but (unfortunately), they also share the same socio-economic challenges.

It is important that we pressurise or support our states to talk, despite the hurdles. We need to support the voices of peace, for it is the only path to sanity.

民众在鼓励和谈方面发挥的作用

政治审议往往限制了普通人民的作用，但我们常常思考他们在国际关系中可以发挥的作用。重要的是，人民明白这场冲突如何使我们两国分裂，如何影响了我们每一个人。印度和巴基斯坦人民不仅拥有共同的语言、文化、对宝莱坞电影或Coke工作室的热爱，而且(不幸的是)他们还面临着同样的社会经济挑战。

尽管存在种种障碍，但我们必须要求或支持我们的国家进行谈判，这一点很重要。我们需要支持和平的声音，因为这是通向理智的唯一道路。

巴基斯坦黎明报网站读者评论：

译文来源：三泰虎     https://www.santaihu.com/48140.html      译者：Joyceliu

外文链接：https://www.dawn.com

Abbas shah

Wish you good luck &a warm welcome.People all over wants peaceful co-exstence.

祝您好运，欢迎光临。世界各国人民都希望和平共处。

Changez Khan

Tell BJP about your trip, telling us in DAWN wouldn't make a diddly difference.

跟印度人民党说说你的旅行见闻吧，在黎明报上跟我们说得再热闹也没有用。

Bhaijan

Factually the stakes are high in maintaining friendship, let there be easy trade & travel. Let there be uniform regional approach. Once the benefits exceed losses, there will be harmony.

事实上，维护友谊的风险很高，希望贸易和旅行变得更容易。一旦利益大于损失，两国之间就能找到和谐。

Bahadur

I hope one day two countries would be friends and people would be free to travel anywhere in either country.

我希望有一天两国能成为朋友，人们可以自由地在彼此国家旅行。

Safdar

We have same ancestral blood trail. The sooner we come closer is the better.

我们有同样的祖先血脉。我们应该尽快拉近距离，越快越好。

riaz u alvi

i was born in allahabad and had early education in u.p a pakistan american would like to visit but declined with no reason why it is so.

我出生在阿拉哈巴德，孩童时期在北方邦接受过教育。一位巴基斯坦裔美国人想去印度，但被无缘无故地拒签了。

RIZ

Pakistan always welcome Indians but never get similar response even here is chatroom Indians put comments against Pakistan all the time and support Indian promoted terrorism.

巴基斯坦一直欢迎印度人，但从来没有得到类似的回应，即使在聊天室，印度人一直在批判巴基斯坦，支持印度推动的恐怖主义。

Sandip Bhattacharya

"People of India and Pakistan not only share a language, a culture, love for Bollywood movies or Coke Studio," Not at all true. India has a lot of languages like Marathi, Bengali, Oriya. tamil. Telegu etc. And not everyone watches stupid Bollywood movies

“印度人和巴基斯坦人不仅拥有共同的语言、文化，而且热爱宝莱坞电影或Coke工作室，”这完全不是真的。印度有很多语种，比如马拉地语、孟加拉语、奥里亚语、泰米尔语、特拉古语等等。并不是每个人都会观看愚蠢的宝莱坞电影。

AXH

@Changez Khan, - "Tell BJP about your trip, telling us in DAWN wouldn't make a diddly difference."

Please do not tell this to the BJP, they will label you unpatriotic and anti-India.

@Changez Khan， -“跟印度人民党说说你的旅行见闻吧，在黎明报上说得再热闹也没用。”

请不要告诉印度人民党，他们会给你贴上不爱国和反印度的标签。

KK

Glad you had a great experience! Come back again

很高兴你有这么棒的旅行体验，再来玩哦。

Shah

We Pakistanis are welcoming people, it is part of our DNA. Infact I have met much more hospitality within the Muslim World then in any Western country. I have spent time with Indians and my experience has been mixed but one thing has been common: they dont like spending money on you like we Pakistanis do on our friends.

我们巴基斯坦人热情好客，这是写在我们基因里的。事实上，我在msl世界感受到的待客之道比在任何西方国家都要热情。我和印度人相处过，我的经历也很复杂，但有一点是共通的：他们不喜欢像我们巴基斯坦人那样把钱花在朋友身上。

Khalid

Thanks for sharing your experience. I always say, there is no country, other than India, on earth where a Pakistani would feel more at home and the same is true for our Indian brothers and sisters visiting Pakistan. All we need is for people to people contact to increase. We need to have visa on arrival facility for citizens of both countries. We lived together for 1000s of years, why make these 70 years of propaganda overshadow the co-exstence of 1000s of years?

谢谢你的分享。我一直说，除了印度，世界上没有哪个国家能让巴基斯坦人有宾至如归的感觉，访问巴基斯坦的印度兄弟姐妹也一样。我们所需要的只是增加民众之间的接触。我们需要为两国公民提供落地签证。我们共同生活了1000年，为什么这70年的政治宣传就掩盖了1000年的美好？

India First

Just read the forums on this paper. You will quickly realize how much we hate each other.

看看这个报纸的论坛就知道了。你很快就会意识到我们有多么憎恨彼此。

barbara

people to people contact can succeed in bringing peace where governments cant let the people of both nations show their governments how friendship is done

两国政府不能让两国人民向他们的政府展示如何建立起友谊，而两国民间之间的交流能够成功地带来和平

Anwarul Haque

Dear ms Devika Welcome and thsnks for your feelings Please do come again And send one more Indian to this part of border And ask him or her to repeat this process Till every single Indian visits Pakistan Though a slow process but a sure process In bringing peace

亲爱的Devika女士，欢迎你，谢谢你说出了你的感受，欢迎下次再来，让印度人到这片边境，也感受一下你的感受，让每一个印度人都来巴基斯坦看看，尽管这是一个缓慢的过程，但肯定会给两国带来和平。

Indian_Punjabi

Hate will never win. Love and friendship is in our DNA and will always triumph despite mutual bouts of insanity.

仇恨永远不会获胜。爱和友谊存在于我们的DNA中，尽管彼此都有过疯狂的经历，但它们总会取得胜利。

1. Zaidi

This is not the first time someone has written an article like this. Feelings are mutual on both sides, a number of Pakistani people have also expressed similar feelings after a visit to India. I have read many articles like this before. People to people contact should be encouraged but is there anyway we can get rid of that animosity that exsts on both sides of the border and live in harmony like good neighbours.

这已经不是第一次看到这样的文章了。双方的感情是相互的，一些巴基斯坦人在来过印度后也表达了类似的感情。我以前读过很多这样的文章。应该鼓励民间接触，但无论如何，我们能摆脱存在于边界两边的敌意，像好邻居一样和睦相处吗?

Dr Kabutaruddin, Mumbai

Politicians should mature. We the common people on both sides know how much love and respect we get from other side. My prayers for a peaceful Indo-Pak relations and normalcy in the region with very high trust just like families.

政客们应该成熟一点。两国的老百姓都知道我们从对方那里得到了多少爱和尊重。我为印巴关系的和平和该地区的正常化祈祷，就像家人一样，我对他们非常信任。

Togther

Happy that you had a good experience.

很高兴你有个愉快的经历。

Jamil Soomro, New York City

Although the article by Ms.Devika Mittal is extremely short her message astoundingly is deep of pure sanity,love and cordiality.A good message for people who strongly believe in reality.

尽管Devika Mittal的文章极其简短，但她所传达的信息却令人惊讶地充满了纯粹的理智、爱和真挚。这对那些坚信现实的人来说是个好消息。

Zain Abidin

Thank you for sharing such a wonderful experience. Warm welcome. The people on both sides, do not want any enmity. The most powerful in the power (government, corporations, military, etc.) don't want either side to get too close, or they will loose their grip on power. The people lose out on both sides, at the end. The warm friendly relations between the two countries will benefit the common people of both sides tremendous. India will gain by peace in whole India, including Kashmir, where Kashmiris in India will realize that Pakistan and India are now friends and there is no need to feel estranged in India anymore. In other words, borders will not matter much, just like Between European countries or US and Canada, border does not matter much, people cross it on cars everyday. Pakistan will benefit by gaining great trade potential and so will India. When will this happen, Hopefully, God Willing, Sooner rather than later.

谢谢你分享这么美好的经历。热烈欢迎。双方人民都不希望有任何敌意。最有权势的人(政府、公司、军队等)不希望彼此走得太近，否则他们就会失去对权力的控制。最终，双方都遭受损失。两国之间的友好友好关系将给双方的普通人民带来巨大的利益。印度将从整个印度的和平中获益，包括克什米尔。在那里，印度的克什米尔人将认识到巴基斯坦和印度现在是朋友。换句话说，边界并不重要，就像欧洲国家之间或者美国和加拿大之间，边界并不重要，人们每天都要坐车越过边界。巴基斯坦和印度都将受益于巨大的贸易潜力。希望上帝保佑，这一切什么时候会发生，越早越好。

Fareed N

People to people contact might work, trade might benefit both countries but the political leadership does n't have courage to tackle the" core "issue.

民间接触可能会起作用，贸易可能对两国都有利，但政治领导层没有勇气解决“关键”问题。

Asif A. Shah

Thank you for sharing your experiences in Pakistan. I also dream of the day when I will be able to go Indian Punjab by just showing my identity card.

感谢你们分享在巴基斯坦的经历。我还梦想着有一天，只要出示身份证，就能通行印度旁遮普邦。

Talha Vaqar

Thank you dear author for coming to Pakistan. The people who suffer human ri hts abuses at the hands of the Indian government and military are ordinary flesh and blood humans like you and I. They are being forced in to a life of oppression and state sponsored terrorism. I wonder how these people who are patrons of this abuse sleep in their beds comfortable with themselves and and how they wake up comfortable with their own exstence. Let's settle our issues and let's let these people BE.

感谢亲爱的作者来到巴基斯坦。那些在印度政府和军队手中遭受过侵犯的人，和你我一样，都是有血有肉的普通人。他们被迫过着压迫和恐怖主义的生活。我想知道这些恶行的庇护人是如何能舒服地睡在床上，又是如何在醒来后对自己感到舒心的。让我们解决我们的问题，让这些人爱咋咋地吧。

Raj patel

At Individual level you can afford to be emotional as level of loss benefit is small but at national level you can't be emotional fools.

在个人层面上，你可以承受情感上的损失，但在国家层面上，你不能成为情感上的傻瓜。

Ayyubi

Make a peace with India is important on equal basis with resolution of Kashmir according to wishes of kahsmeri people and UNO resolution .

根据卡什梅里人民的愿望和联合国解决克什米尔问题的决议，在平等的基础上同印度达成和平是重要的。

Just Saying

Of course the Pakistanis you meet are going to be nice. The dispute between the two countries is about border and politics.

当然，你见到的巴基斯坦人很友好。两国之间的争端是关于边界和政治的。

Mujhe Kyun Nikala - Canada

Thank you Ms Mittal for writing and expressing your viewpoint and feelings so truthfully and honestly. Love from Canada.

感谢米塔尔女士的投稿，真诚地表达了您的观点和感受。我在加拿大为你点赞。

MALIK

My son just sent me an email few minutes ago that he had safely arrived at Lahore. My 23 year old son was born in USA and is attending Oxford and has taken South East Asian Studies as his masters subject. Despite my strict efforts, the young man did not learn Urdu and the Oxford told him that this would be one of the mandatory subject. He wanted to go to India and was selected in a Urdu class in Lucknow in this summer vacation. To cut the story short, he applied for Indian visa at the London office with a US passport. He was told innumerable excuses, and finally he was granted a visa. The next day, he was called back and his visa was cancelled. His only fault was that his both parents were born in Pakistan albeit his grand parents both born in India. This young man has no hand in the foreign policy of Pakistan and knows little about the history, geography and prevailing conditions in both the countries.

我儿子几分钟前刚刚给我发了一封电子邮件，说他已经安全抵达拉合尔。我23岁的儿子出生在美国，现在就读于牛津大学的硕士学位，研究东南亚。尽管我很努力，但这个年轻人并没有学会乌尔都语，牛津大学告诉他这将是必修课之一。他想去印度，今年暑假被选进勒克瑙的乌尔都语班。他用美国护照向伦敦办事处申请了印度签证，最后获得了签证。可第二天，他接到电话，说他的签证被取消了。他唯一的瑕疵是他的父母都出生在巴基斯坦，尽管他的祖父母都出生在印度。这个年轻人没有参与巴基斯坦的外交政策，对两国的历史、地理和现状都知之甚少。

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